All the Fun of Melbourne’s Historic Fair, Luna Park - The Australian

In the age of increasingly realistic computer games, Melbourne’s century-old Luna Park in Melbourne’s St Kilda still draws the crowds.

 “Generations of Melbourne families have some of their earliest memories at Luna Park,” shouts Mary Stewart, the park’s CEO, over a chorus of delighted squeals. I’m standing with her, between the Ghost Train and the carousel, attempting to talk about the history and future of this wonderful place. Excited children swarm over every ride, clutching sticks of fairy floss as large as their heads. What they don’t know is that Luna Park is also home to some of the most important fairground architecture on the planet, much of it being restored in preparation for next year’s centenary.

Built in 1912, the undulating wooden scaffolding of the Scenic Railway defines the perimeter of the park and has stood the test of time. In fact, this wonderful relic is one of the oldest and rarest roller coasters on the planet (Only two of this design remain. The other, built in 1932, is located in the UK).  Today the iconic ride is quiet: after some winter maintenance, it is scheduled to reopen for spring. This affords me the rare opportunity to tour of the inner workings which, I discover, are simple (some might say alarmingly so): a single massive electric motor drives an ancient ten-foot diameter steel wheel via a long belt. This, in turn, winches the carriages to the zenith of the ride before releasing them on their journey.  “We’re hoping to put a glass wall here next year so everyone who visits can see how it works,” explains Stewart proudly.

Next up is the carousel, undoubtedly the jewel in Luna Park’s crown. When the 99-year-old attraction was renovated in 2000 the artisans discovered not only that the manufacturer (Philadelphia Toboggan Company) was still in business, but that they possessed a complete database of paint colours for every horse, carriage, frill and flourish. Today, Luna Park’s carousel looks exactly as it did in 1913. Even the organ (whose inner workings are also being brought back to life) is absolutely original. With four rows of horses, it’s such a rare and beautiful example of fairground architecture that, according to Stewart, a carousel enthusiast once offered around $240,000 for a single horse.

In spite of the heritage listing of many rides, Luna Park doesn’t intentionally specialize in nostalgia. Among the two dozen or so rides there are many modern ways to spin, twirl, flip and bump: Paraoh’s Curse swings completely upside down; Holodeck reproduces a flight into deep space; The Spider twirls guests on  orbiting arms and the brand new Coney Island Top Drop gives brief moments of zero gravity. Oddly enough, the old rides (in particular, the scenic railway and ghost train) are still the most popular.

I head to the Ghost Train to see what all the fuss is about. Even on this chilly winter day, a line thirty people strong wait for the opportunity to crowd into the miniature carriages. When it comes to our turn, my wife and I lurch through the arch and careen through the darkened alleyways on a jolty antique track. It’s like being inside a giant grandfather clock. At every turn we are greeted by a specter of “scary” vignettes: severed hands play a piano, a hilariously overwrought illustration of a guillotine in action…it’s all so wonderfully kitsch and we’re suffused with laughter at every turn.

At the end we are presented with a photograph taken while inside — the ride’s only concession to modernity. Our expression is one of complete, childlike happiness. Yet another satisfying memory freshly minted by Luna Park. 

CHECKLIST

Times vary on a seasonal basis; during summer Luna Park is open 11 AM to 8PM Sunday to Wednesday and 11 AM to 11PM Thursday to Saturday. For more information visit www.lunapark.com.au.

Words and (unpublished) image by Adam McCulloch.Originally published in The Australian newspaper. The format has been altered to suit Tumblr. To view the original version click here.