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Adam McCulloch

As a travel journalist I write about all that is weird and especially wonderful: from reviewing breathtakingly beautiful hotels for Robb Report to investigating the world's most painful insect bites for Travel + Leisure.

Dramatic entrances are par for the course at Rosewood Mayakobá.

This year-old property on Mexico’s Riviera Maya forms part of the Mayakobá luxury enclave, which is rounded out by Fairmont, Viceroy and Banyan Tree resorts. Rosewood guests enter the “lobby”, an open-air pavilion with a sweeping modernist roofline, an arresting star-shaped cascading chandelier, and a waterfall that ripples down the stone wall of a spiral staircase. At the bottom of the stairs is an emerald green lagoon and awaiting electric motor launch that silently spirits guests away into a labyrinth of canals.

It’s this natural ecosystem of spring-fed water encased by a canyon of limestone that forms the lifeblood and overriding theme of this charismatic resort. After entering one of the 87 lagoon suites (elegantly furnished in river-stone hues using materials such as woven leather, cane and local hardwoods), the curved walls and spiral layout funnel the visitor through marbled tiled rooms, each serving an increasingly intimate function. At the suite’s center, having passed through foyer, kitchen, lounge, bedroom and bath, guests step through the shower and into a hidden garden.

Even the spa follows this stone and water theme. Located on its own private island, the focus of the 17,000 square foot space is an ancient cenote, or underground limestone spring, found throughout the Yucatan and considered sacred within Mayan mythology. Spa-goers can enjoy a deep tissue massage, cleanse mind and body in a traditional temazcal sweat lodge, or simply float in the cenote.

For gourmands, Casa del Lago is the most sophisticated of the four restaurants: two menu standouts are the red snapper with sea urchin vermicelli and suckling pig with apple ravioli. The room’s lofty dimensions and glowing, egg-like lanterns provide extra grandeur by night. It’s the smaller spaces, though, that make you want to linger. A raw bar called Agave Azul is devoted to a 100-strong tequila library including the first pressed, twice distilled nectar-of-the-Gods that is Don Julio Real. The all-important cigar bar offers sixteen varieties hailing from Cuba, Dominican Republic and Honduras, including Castro’s cherished Cohibas. Coincidentally enough, the list also perfectly mirrors the taste of recent guest Governor Arnold Schwartznegger.

This gentlemen’s club vibe is no reason to snub Riviera Maya’s excellent beaches. In fact, an entire community of 33 ocean suites is just five minutes away by electric cart (or a lazy ten by launch). Here you’ll find the same sophisticated accommodation, plus panoramic ocean views and a bohemian beach scene at the horizon pool and beachfront grill Punta Bonita, which serves lobster tacos and other upscale incarnations of traditional Yucatecan cuisine. 

For guests preferring bunker sand to beach sand, the 1,600-acre Mayakobá’s El Camaléon golf course (designed by Greg Norman) is the first in Mexico to host a PGA tournament - on 23rd February 2009, 132 PGA pros will tee off for the Mayakobá Golf Classic. Even on the fairway, the draw of water is omnipresent: the water-trap on the opening green, for instance, is an ancient cenote from which balls never, ever return.

For more information www.rosewoodmayakoba.com

Words by Adam McCulloch. Originally published in Cigar Aficionado. The format has been altered to suit Tumblr.