Siberian huskies never tire. Believe me, I owned one. On more than one occasion we trailed him along the beach in a car until we got bored. In honor of his memory I leapt at the chance to go dog-sledding at The Resort at Paws Up in Montana, USA.
On arriving at my luxuriously appointed timber villa I discover a crackling fire, rustic furniture hewn from birch logs and animal hides and all the comforts I could ever want including double shower, spa, internet and giant plasma screen TV with a million stations. Let’s be clear: the rustic feel isn’t just for show. This is a working cattle ranch turned tony adventure retreat, set at the foot of the Garnet Mountains with 15,000 hectares of woods carved up by the trout filled Blackfoot River, home to bear, cougar, deer and moose. The temptation to curl up with a book is enormous but the resort is all about the great outdoors. There’s fishing, skiing, sleigh rides, snow-shoeing and more. Me, I’m going to the dogs.
At my approach, the huskies assembled at the trailhead let loose with a cacophony of howling, each dog desperate for a chance to run with the team. They love their job so much that an integral piece of equipment is a giant grappling hook/snow anchor. Our dog musher Dona Miller explains that lead dogs, like mushers, don’t have to be alpha males or even individuals for that matter. She selects two bitches from the howling hoard and harnesses them in place. Each team member has specific roles: lead dogs are the pathfinders, swing dogs follow guiding the team dogs behind. Bringing up the rear are wheel dogs who stabilize the team and stop the sled (and therefore us) from overturning on tight bends.
It should be the ultimate dog walking machine: a wooden sled loaded with yours truly, my wife, a dog musher and enough blankets to smother a bear. Hauling it should exhaust any hyperactive hound - but not these puppies. We lie among the blankets and, when Miller calls out “Hike”, the dogs bound into action. Even through the heavy snow the dogs maintain a decent pace. “They can keep up all day,” says Miller, over the rising hiss of snow under our runners. “In the Iditarod [sled dog race in Alaska] the dogs run about 200 kilometers a day for nine days,” she says.
The air is crisp with the intoxicating smell of spruce, the sky is impossibly big, and the Spring thaw gurgles through the Black Foot River at our shoulder. The miles fly by, the river unwinds and so do I. Even before we round the bend I can smell the earthy aroma of an open fire and freshly brewed hot chocolate signaling the end of our ride. The dogs don’t want to stop. I’m with them. “Hike. Hike. Hike,” I say. My husky would have loved it.
TRIP NOTES
GETTING THERE
Qantas fly daily from most Australian capital cities to Missoula, Montana via Los Angeles or San Francisco. Paws Up transfers from Missoula area available on request. www.quantas.com.au
For more information and details of the many accommodation options and both summer and winter activities visit www.pawsup.com.
FITNESS
Don’t let the dogs do all the work. The experienced guides and groomed trails make cross-country skiing at Paws Up a dream. The activities center has all the equipment you’ll ever need for a day on the trails. Remember to keep your eyes peeled — not everything hibernates in winter. Elk and moose abound, as do mountain lion.
INDULGENCE
When booking, opt for the Full American Meal Plan. Most accommodation options have self-contained kitchens but at $110 US for three meals daily, the plan is great value and a perfect chance to sample the low fat local game. The grilled elk loin with pumpernickel-gruyere spaetzle, kale, mustard demi glace is a winner.
THRILL
Dogs may have instinct but snowmobiles have raw horsepower. Even guests with no experience can take a private snowmobile tour to the well preserved Ghosttown of Garnet, hidden deep in the Garnet Mountains. En route you’ll pass the ramshackle hermit camp whose occupant claims he’s Jesus Christ.
Words and images by Adam McCulloch. Originally published in Men’s Health. The format has been altered to suit Tumblr.
